Laos 3 : The Long Road to Xieng Khuoang

"Are we there yet?”

That must the thousandth time I've asked that question.

We’ve bumped along in the bus for more then 10 hours since leaving Vientiane. The bus had broken down a total of five times. Each time the driver and the conductor had managed to cobble something together and coaxed the old beast to move a few more kilometers before it protested with a cough and splutter, spewing evil smoke plumes in its wake.



The passengers were remarkably tolerant and patient, perhaps resigned even. Bus breakdowns were a common occurrence in Laos. Not surprising as most of the local buses looked as though they were held together by little more than rubber band and glue. Hardly able to withstand the rigours of travelling on the mountain roads.


The fifth breakdown was the straw that broke the proverbial camel’s back. Mr Bus Driver gave up trying to fix it. By then, dusk was upon us and darkness was beginning to shroud the countryside. No knights in shining armour charged to the rescue but the bus driver from the bus that was trailing behind offered a ride. That will do! Thank you God! I don’t relish squatting by the lonely country road for hours waiting for help to arrive.

“Xieng Khouang?” I asked the Laotian girl sitting next to me. The last thing I’d want was to get into a bus heading towards the wrong town! Vigorous nods assured me. Before long I felt a nudge at my side, ‘lift up your hands’ she indicated. I obediently raised my hand. The conductor was counting the number of passengers headed for Xieng Khouang, the province where Phonsavanh is located.

The bus we boarded plies the Vang Vieng – Luang Prabang route, and Xieng Khouang wasn’t exactly ‘on the way’. I had no idea how long a detour that would entail for the Luang Prabang bound passengers, was just grateful they consented to pick us up.

There was no moon that night, the darkness was engulfing, cut only by the beam of the headlights. For the next 3 hours, I held on tight as the bus zig zigged around the hairpin curves of the narrow mountain road, trying to make up for lost time. It was a stomach clenching, gut roiling kind of ride, one misjudgment and down the ravine we all tumble! Oh joy.

At last! At about 8pm, the bus swung into the bus terminal for the Xieng Khouang province. My relief was palpable when I stumbled out of the bus. We had travel for thirteen hours from Vientiane. My longest bus journey to date and I don’t care to beat that record anytime in the near future.

Next up, Phonsavanh and the Mysterious Jars...

Tip:
* Board the bus heading towards Xieng Khouang from the Northern Bus Terminal in Vientiane. LaoMiao's blog has good information on bus schedule.
* We were told to purchase the bus tickets on the day of travel, just turn up at least an hour earlier at the bus terminal to secure your tickets. But if you are there during the holiday period, you should check to see if you can buy the tickets ahead of time.
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Laos 2 : Vientiane, Old World Charm New World Prices

“This place is like Taiping (a small town in Malaysia) 20 years ago” my travel companion remarked.

Indeed, Vientiane seems to be a city time forgot. It has the languid atmosphere of a provincial town rather then the hustle bustle one would associate with a capital city. Pre-war style shop houses line the main roads and French colonial buildings co-exist with rustic Wats and Buddhist inspired buildings.

Patuxai, the iconic landmark in Vientiane

At 2.30pm, the streets were deserted except for foreigners like us crazy enough to brave the searing heat. We were driven out to the streets by our empty bellies to seek repast. Marching up and down Setthathirath Road and after peering at menu prices of the various restaurants and cafes, we settled for Blue Sky Café. 57,000 kip (USD6.80) for 2 plates of fried rice wasn’t provincial prices but definitely more affordable than some of the other restaurants we’ve passed by.

Vientiane has no lack of places to eat, provided you have the moolah. Due to its French colonial heritage, there are plenty of restaurants offering French cuisine, but be prepared to splurge.

Since lunch was rather meager, we decided to spring for dinner at Kua Lao, the restaurant recommended by our guesthouse receptionist for traditional Laotian food. Spurning the sampler set dinner; we ordered ala carte from the menu and ended up with this.

Looks familiar? Pandan chicken, otak otak, pork sausages and some sort of coconut milk based stew. We ended up paying USD26 for a meal that could be had for a fraction of the price at a Thai restaurant back in Kuala Lumpur. But never mind, the dinner comes with a side of traditional Laos performance.

(In-house band, they weren't exactly rocking =.=)

It is possible to get around the city under your own steam, either via bus 11 (on foot) or on bicycles. Bicycle rental cost only 40,000 kip a day. It is a cheap mode of transportation which many tourists choose. Unfortunately they have to settle for whatever vehicle is available at the rental shop. To our amusement, we saw a huge strapping man peddling a kiddie's pink bicycle, like a clown at the circus.

Vientiane is virtually traffic free, there aren't many cars on the street, especially on a hot searing afternoon when we were about. Of course you can find the ever present tuk tuks lurking at street corners where tourists frequent. On hot lazy afternoons, the drivers even string up hammocks to sleep in their tuk tuks while waiting for customers.

We hired a tuk tuk to get to the Northern Bus Terminal to purchase our onward journey bus tickets to Xieng Khoung. The 2km journey cost 40,000 kip (USD4.80) which we subsequently bargained to 30,000kip. Cost is equivalent to a taxi ride in Malaysia.

For all its backwater appearance, Vientiane has no lack of accommodation to suit all budgets. Most of the hotels, guesthouses and hostels are congregated near the river front, Fa Ngam Road and Nokeo Khoumane Road. Not many of them have email booking facilities though, your best bet is to phone in or fax. We picked Lani Guesthouse, a quiet guesthouse tucked in a cul de sac off Setthathirath Road. Mid range price, USD25+10% for a single room or USD35+10% for a double twin bedroom. The place was clean and neat, a stone's throw away from the main street. So no complaints there.

Tip:

* Ask for the price before you hop into a tuk tuk. You can try negotiating for a slightly lower fare.
* Lani Guesthouse http://www.laniguesthouse.com/
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Laos 1 : Overland to Laos

The train pulled away from the Bangkok Hualampong station sharp at 8pm sharp as scheduled. I’m on board train #69, north bound for Nong Khai at the border of Thailand and Laos. Wheeee!!! It’s been a long time since I took a train ride and my first on an overnight sleeper. I was excited to be on my way to Laos.
The Thai trains are very comfortable, for 758THB (USD21.70), you get a seat on the air-conditioned second class carriage. The train has a washbasin and a toilet for use in every carriage. The train stewards transform the seats into beds at night with clean bed-sheet and blanket. I fell asleep that night lulled by the rocking of the train while it chugs on, bearing me 615 kilometers across the country to Nong Khai.
Dawn could not come soon enough. I was eager to be up and about as the enclosed top bunk has no window and left me feeling slightly claustrophobic.The scheduled arrival at Nong Khai was 8.25am, but the train, delayed for 3 hours eventually arrived at Nong Khai at 11.30am.

Stepping out from the Nong Khai train station, a phalanx of tuk tuks with their drivers were waiting for fresh meat. After much haggling, we secured a tuk tuk for 50THB (USD1.50) to take us to the Thai immigration at the Friendship Bridge. The official price we found out much later was 40THB per tuk tuk. From the Thai immigration, we caught the local bus for 30THB each to take us across the Friendship Bridge to the Laos immigration. My travel buddy and I breezed through the immigration because most of the foreigners were delayed applying for their entry visa.

From the Lao immigration, it is another 22 km into the city of Vientiane. Tuk tuk from the immigration cost 200THB for the trip into town.

Such convoluted travel arrangements will be a thing of the past from March 2009 onwards. The Bangkok-NongKhai railway has been extended across the Friendship Bridge into the new railway station at Tha Naleng, Laos and is due to open on 5th March 2009.

Tip:

• Seat61 is an excellent site for information on travel by rail. Check Thai Railway train schedule and online reservation.

• Do not use services of agents to get a Laos Visa. You can apply for a 30day visa on arrival at the Laotian immigration. If you are a passport holder from any ASEAN country, no visa is required for a 15 day entry into Laos. The retire-asia.com site provides information on Lao visa application.
  

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